SUN DESTINATION

Australia’s Hunter Valley Vines

By Genevieve Paiement

When you’ve had enough of Sydney’s sun and sand, trade Lycra for linen and head to Australia’s oldest grape-growing region.

First things first: swirl, sniff, sip, repeat; that’s what you’re here to do. The bucolic, kangaroo-dotted vistas are just icing on the cake. And with about 120 wineries to choose from, the trick is to not get overwhelmed. Just aim for a mix of big guns (watch for the tour buses lined up outside) and little gems (get off the main roads). What the Hunter Valley does best is sémillon and shiraz, the kinds that benefit from a little cellaring. Start with elegant Audrey Wilkinson Vineyard, established in 1866 at the foot of the Brokenback Ranges, featuring an impressive collection of gold-medal-winning sémillons, swoon-inducing views and a small museum celebrating its history.

At the mega-winery end of the size spectrum, you’ll find Tempus Two. Sir Elton John, Rod Stewart and k.d. lang have all played its amphitheatre. If no rock stars are on the schedule, there’s always the wine by lauded vintner Liz Jackson and the crisp, clean lines of the tasting room’s ultramodern interior. As for the little guys, you shouldn’t miss the Boutique Wine Centre, which stocks bottles from the area’s best small producers, like Meerea Park, Château Pato and Glenguin Estate. And if you find the viticulture jargon and protocol a little intimidating, let the ironically named Wine Snobs come to your rescue with their Hunter-based wine-appreciation classes.

The Hunter also boasts a bewildering array of distractions that vie for your attention when you’re not sampling the vino. Hot-air balloon ride at sunrise? Sure. Antiquing? Yep. And how about horseback riding? Why not? When it’s time for a break, take a stroll through the Hunter Valley Gardens, where 12 themed gardens span 300 hectares, making for a picturesque family-friendly pit-stop location.

Of course you’ll need to eat and one of the best places to do so these days is ROCK Restaurant at Poole’s Rock, where dishes like spatchcock, foie gras, cashew and fig galantine typify the French-inflected modern Australian fare. Spring for the decadent degustation with wines to match and book early if you want to snag a spot at dinner. As for take-home goodies, get your dairy fix at the Hunter Valley Smelly Cheese Shop, go sweet at the Hunter Valley Chocolate Company, or grab a bottle of infused oil at the Hunter Olive Centre, part of the boutique Pokolbin Estate Vineyard. For a one-stop shop, hit the Australian Regional Food Store and Café, which stocks everything from Tasmanian jams to Aboriginal spice rubs.

As for where to spend the night, Cypress Lakes Resort covers all the bases with the deluxe Golden Door Spa, the vineyard-view golf course and the activity club for kids. Peppers Guest House, a more boutique option, is Aussie country on the outside (note the corrugated iron roof) and contemporary luxury on the inside – an idyllic retreat after a full day of gluttonous carousing.

(Genevieve Paiement is a Montreal-based writer who has lived and worked in France and Australia. Her work has appeared in such places as Time Out Paris, The Sydney Morning Herald, Guardian.co.uk and enRoute. She last wrote for onAir about spas in Las Vegas.)

TOP PHOTO: RODNEY EVANS  / TOURISM AUSTRALIA
COUPLE: TOURISM NEW SOUTH WALES
CHEESE SHOP: HUNTER VALLEY SMELLY CHEESE SHOP
HUNTER VALLEY: OLIVER STREWE / TOURISM AUSTRALIA