Food & Drink
Swiss Wine: A Best-kept Secret
She pours pensively, closes her eyes and appears to dive nose-first into the glass. She inhales deeply. Finally, she sips. Coraline de Wurstemberger, the Swiss president of International Associated Women in Wine, lets out a contented sigh. Her 2004 Chasselas Violet is just right.
The iris gold of the wine reflects the soft light on the surrounding vineyards. Beyond, Mont Blanc reigns – the highest point in Europe at over 4,785 metres. We are in Mont-sur-Rolle, Switzerland, located in the La Côte region, one of three wine-growing regions that hug the Swiss side of Lake Geneva. Swiss wine is still a well-kept secret, but Coraline de Wurstemberger, like many in the know, believes it is worth discovering.
Beyond Geneva
Begin the quest for wine Swiss-style at the centuries-old vineyards outside Geneva. Besides the traditional grapes like Chasselas and Gamay, you can find Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Aligoté, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, among others. A good starting point is the village of Dardagny, memorably painted by Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot during a visit in 1853. You can drive, hike or bike the Route du Vignoble, a marked trail that winds gently through the nearby villages of Russin, Satigny and Peney-Dessus.
Stop for lunch at the lovely Café de Peney by the Rhône River or, for a richer gastronomical experience, try its sister restaurant, the two-Michelin-starred Domaine de Châteauvieux, where master sommelier Xavier Debrock curates an impressive list of local wines. It might be the only way to sample one of the cassis-scented Sauvignon Blancs from star vintner Nicolas Bonnet — unless you would prefer to add your name to his long waiting list. (Bonnet sells all the wine from his Domaine de la Comtesse Eldegarde in Satigny before the grapes are even picked.)
La Côte
Drive east along the croissant shape of Lake Geneva to discover La Côte, between Nyon and Lausanne. Rolling hills that cradle 4,900 acres of vineyards form the first strata of the Jura Mountains. Close to the water, the gravelled soil near the ancient Roman town of Nyon produces clear-tasting wines, whereas La Côte’s higher elevations and heavier earth create deeper tannins. Visit Coraline de Wurstemberger at her 350-year-old domain in the hills, Les Dames de Hautecour, to taste her clear, fruity Chasselas. Or call on the Domaine de la Colombe in Féchy and try Raymond Paccot’s biodynamic spicy Gamaret, a mix of Gamay and Reichensteiner. Don’t miss Tristan Artisan-Chocolatier in Bougy-Villars for the best handcrafted chocolate truffles in the region, and be sure to stop at the Café du Port in Rolle for the freshest filets de perche — reservations essential.
Lavaux
After Lausanne, the landscape changes dramatically. The Lavaux region holds more than 2,000 acres of vineyards, planted on steep slopes hundreds of years ago. (These vineyard terraces are a UNESCO World Heritage site.) In Aran-Villette, father and son Henri and Vincent Chollet run Domaine Dugrabe, known for its Dame Claire and an Epesses that’s redolent of pineapple and truffle. In Saint-Saphorin, stop at the Château de Glérolles (which dates back to 1150) for a local Gewürztraminer with floral and lemony essence or a more rustic Humagne. At the centre of the village, L’Auberge de l’Onde will delight with its rotisserie specialties paired, of course, with Saint-Saphorin wines.
Do bring back as many bottles as you can. As you may have noticed, it is still a challenge to find Swiss wine abroad. Why? The Swiss love their national nectar, so they keep their saucy secret to themselves.
(Based in New York City, writer Sylvie Bigar explores the world in search of culinary delights and vibrant destinations.)
Useful Information
Café de Peney, 130, route d’Aire-la-Ville, Peney-Dessus, 41-22-753-1755
Domaine de Châteauvieux, 16, chemin de Châteauvieux, Peney-Dessus, 41-22-753-1511
Domaine de la Comtesse Eldegarde, 17, chemin du Bornalet, Satigny, 41-22-753-0665
Les Dames de Hautecour, 10, route de la Noyère, Mont-sur-Rolle, 41-21-826-0918
Domaine la Colombe, Féchy, 41-21-808-6648
Tristan Artisan-Chocolatier, Bougy-Villars, 41-21-807-2125
Café du Port, 9, rue du Port, Rolle, 41-21-825-1520
Domaine Dugrabe, Montagny, Aran-Villette, 41-21-799-2485
Château de Glérolles, Saint-Saphorin, 41-21-946-2530
L’Auberge de l’Onde, village centre, Saint-Saphorin, 41-21-925-4900
Getting There
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TOP PHOTO: ROCKY CHANG / ISTOCKPHOTO
GRAPES: ALISTAIR SCOTT / ISTOCKPHOTO
LAVAUX: LAKE GENEVA REGION TOURIST OFFICE
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