CULTURE

Budapest’s Baths

By Vanessa Fontaine

Take a dip in the same healing waters that once soothed sultans and Roman generals, then soak up the rich culture and history of modern Budapest.

Szechenyi Baths

This timeless city unfolds along its waterways. More silver than blue, the sparkling Danube meanders lazily between Buda and Pest. Strolling on the shores of the legendary river is the best way to behold architectural wonders like the Parliament, a delicately Byzantine version of Westminster. For those who prefer a view from the water, boat tours offer hour-long sightseeing jaunts, leisurely dinner cruises or even trips to other European treasures, such as Bucharest or Vienna.

Budapest boasts more than 100 warm springs, believed to cure everything from arthritis to Parkinson’s disease. Before stripping down, you might want to call the Hungarian Spa Association. They can provide all the details (in English), from locations and prices to desired water temperatures and healing virtues.

The capital’s various spas reflect the tastes of its many invaders. The popular Gellert Baths is a triumph of Art Nouveau architecture. Perched on one of the Buda hills, its opulent water rooms are teeming with mosaics and colonnades. After your soak, visit the ancient and vast Central Market, just across the Danube. Reminiscent of a train station, it’s where you’ll find the city’s best selection of fresh produce, salami and paprika. Go to the second floor for a large variety of souvenirs.

Szechenyi, another of the city’s favorites, looks like a Baroque palace where glistening pools have replaced Rococo gardens. Despite its grandeur, it retains a casual atmosphere, with young families frolicking outside and seasoned bathers inside playing chess in clouds of steam. The adjacent municipal park, Varosliget, is perfect for a post-bath saunter. And on weekends, the flea market unveils a slew of antique treasures, some with quirky Communist-era cachet.

On colder days, visit Gerbeaud, the “apotheosis of Central Europe patisserie,” according to the Michelin guide. It’s the spot for a strong cup of Turkish-style coffee. Waves of Ottoman invaders left the Hungarians with a love of caffeine as well as some of the world’s most stunning Turkish baths. The two main spas, Rudas and Kiraly, were built for pashas, with domed roofs and breathtaking octagonal pools. A substantial gay clientele patronizes both, but certain days are reserved exclusively for women. Meanwhile, Cinetrips are the latest trend in the Turkish baths. During these events, sulfur-smelling revelers, sometimes still submerged in steaming thermal waters, dance the night away to techno beats among centuries-old arches.

When it’s time to dry off, look for one of the city’s many small wine bars serving Hungary’s world-class vino (crowned "King of Wines and Wine of Kings" by Louis XIV). To really appreciate the best varieties, like Bull’s Blood (Egri Bikaver) and Sheep’s Tail (Juhfark), go right to the source, the country’s picturesque wine regions. But if you’re pressed for time, just visit the House of Hungarian Wines in Budapest, where a moderate admission fee buys you a handful of cheese croutons and unlimited access to some 50 bottles of the country’s finest. You won’t leave sober, but at least you’ll be clean.

(Vanessa Fontaine is a freelance travel writer and a CBC radio and television news journalist. She splits her time between New York and Toronto.)

TOP PHOTO: AUTHORS IMAGE / ALAMY
DANUBE: IMRE CIKAJLO / ISTOCKPHOTO
GELLERT BATHS: ADAM MANDOKI / ISTOCKPHOTO
MARKET HALL: YING FENG JOHANSSON / ISTOCKPHOTO