WEEKEND
Quebec City
The cobblestone streets and horse-drawn carriages of Quebec City may give the walled city its old-town charm, but the boutique shopping and laid-back cafés show off its contemporary savoir faire.
Where to stay
Built on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, Quebec City is split by a walled fortress (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) that divides the upper town from the lower town. We begin in the Vieux-Port (lower old town) as we check into the impeccable 94-room Auberge Saint-Antoine. Stylishly blending old and new, this boutique hotel-museum features more than 700 artifacts, some dating back to the 17th century. Discovered on-site, these relics are carefully displayed as works of art throughout the hotel. Antique-laden, yes, but with its brand-new health and fitness center, heated bathroom floors and full Wi-Fi capability, the auberge is firmly planted in the 20th century. (The Relais & Châteaux property was recently named the Top Hotel in Canada by Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards.)
We book a table in the hotel’s dining room, Panache, where chef François Blais reinvents classic French Canadian cuisine with dishes like halibut with sage butter or a side of beef doused with red wine and porcini-mushroom mustard sauce. The roomy resto (a former 19th-century maritime warehouse) has kept the original stonewalls and massive wood beams intact, upholding the hotel’s historical chic decor.
Where to shop
Auberge Saint-Antoine is surrounded by art galleries and antique dealers on both Rue Saint-Pierre and Rue Saint-Paul. After a brief tour, we head for Quartier Petit Champlain to browse crafty boutiques like Aux Belles de Nuit, where we pick up an artisanal painted-glass cheese plate, and Boutique La Dentellière, the spot for boudoir goodies like lace linens. We stop for a light lunch on the lively patio of Le Lapin Sauté. Tip: Try the onion soup or picnic-for-two sampler.
A brief ride up the funiculaire leads us to the landmark Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, which stands proudly on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River. Streets lined with picturesque restos and charming storefronts spiral off in all directions as we head toward Rue Saint-Jean. On Côte de la Fabrique, we discover the ultimate shop for elegant Christmas decor, Au Royaume du Père Noël, where we pick up fine hand-painted egg-shaped ornaments from Austria.
Rue Saint-Jean is busier, with brand-name shops like Le Château, but we beeline for the popular Casse-Crêpe Breton, where we’re delighted by the sheer size of the crepes, both savory and sweet. Definitely worth the half-hour wait.
Where to go out
In the evening, we venture out to the up-and-coming new Saint-Roch district. The hub of the action here is Boudoir Lounge, located on a pedestrian-only street and neighbored by an equally slick sushi joint (Yuzu) across the street and a Hugo Boss shop next door. The strip is a sure bet on weekends, but weekday happy hours and Thursday nights are equally lively.
(Catalina Margulis is the Toronto-based globe-trotting deputy editor of 2: The Magazine for Couples.)
Useful information
Aux Belles de Nuit, 55, rue Sous-le-Fort, 418-692-6086
Boutique La Dentellière, 56, boulevard Champlain, 418-692-2807
Au Royaume du Père Noël, 12, côte de la Fabrique, 418-692-3022
Casse-Crêpe Breton, 1136, rue Saint-Jean, 418-692-0438
Getting there
Air Canada and Air Canada Jazz offer convenient daily service to Quebec City. Book now. Plus, check out our great deals on car rentals and hotel rooms.
TOP PHOTO: SÉBASTIEN COTÉ / ISTOCKPHOTO
AUX BELLES DE NUIT: TAC TIC MARKETING