Despite a considerable spit-and-polish, socialist Berlin is everywhere, if you know where to look. Fueled by the hit film Good Bye Lenin!, burgeoning Ostalgie (romanticization of Communist Germany) is sweeping even the most capitalistic Berliners. Here are some of the best spots to find the charm of the old — and the contemporary thrills of the new.

Old Berlin
As East Berlin's squat and hatted "Walk/Don't Walk" traffic icon (“Ampelmaenchen”) slowly cedes to the West's more upright version, it’s become a key symbol of Ostalgie. Pick up genuine Ampelmaenchen signs, T-shirts and cookie cutters at Berlin Story. Also on hand: Pre-unification souvenirs, Trabbant toy models (the infamous mass-produced, and smoky, fiberglass car) and a free history museum.
Unter Den Linden 10, tel:030/20 45 38 42, www.berlinstory.de/berlinstory/english.html

Located over 200 metres above East Berlin's main gathering place, Alexanderplatz, the globular Tele-Cafe offers a spy satellite's view of Berlin — and drinks and dinner until 1 a.m. "Alex" itself resembles a collaboration between Joe Stalin and Walt Disney, displaying socialist realism and World's Fair futurism in equal measure. The snare-drum-shaped World Time Clock displays the correct time in all Communist capital cities, while the nearby House of Teachers building is wrapped in a mural of noble workers nobly working.
030/242 33 33, www.berlinerfernsehturm.de

Few westerners saw the collections contained on Museum Island during the Cold War. Recognized as a UN World Heritage Site, these five art and history museums house exceptional collections — including impressive showings by famed impressionists Manet, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne and Rodin. The Ishtar Gate, a 47-foot high wall of blue brick decorated with animal friezes from King Nebuchadnezzar II’s palace, is alone worth the $6 (Cdn.) price of admission.
030/266 29 87, www.smb.spk-berlin.de/e/loc/m.html

New Berlin
"No Man's Land" near Checkpoint Charlie has given way to Sony Center's gleaming towers and translucent umbrella canopy, which is home to cinemas, a four-storey Sony Store and other hi-tech delights. The sleek Zoon Center, a youth lounge run by Volkswagen, offers orb-shaped video pods for chatting or game playing, body-wired VR games and driver's training (this is VW, after all).
030/25 75 13 80

After spending the Cold War sequestered in Bonn, the German government returned to the restored Reichstag in 1999, bringing new prosperity and purpose to once-isolated Berlin. Sightseers line up early to ascend the winding ramps of architect Norman Foster's breathtaking glass dome. Reservations are required for Dachgarten Restaurant (30/22 62 99 33), a rooftop café overlooking the rejuvenated embassy district, Pariser Platz and Brandenberg Gate.
Bundestag, Platz der Republik 1, www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/index.html

Kreuzberg is a vibrant, sometimes raucous, enclave of artists, gays and lesbians, and a large Turkish community. Not surprisingly, the neighbourhood has a bursting-at-the-seams café culture. On patio-lantern-festooned Bergmannstrasse, international restaurants compete with the humble-but-delicious currywurst stands that line the sidewalk. Shop for antiques in the dozens of shops along Bergmannstrasse, or the freshest CDs and records at brimming Space Hall on nearby Zossenerstrasse.
Zossenerstrasse 33, tel:30/694 76 64,

GETTING THERE
Let us take you to Germany. We offer daily non-stop service to Munich from Toronto, and to Frankfurt from Calgary, Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver in conjunction with our Star Alliance partner Lufthansa. Together we offer an extensive connection network to other German cities, including Hamburg and Berlin! Book now