Adventure

360 Degrees of Lake Tahoe Spring Skiing

By David Godsall

With a dozen mountains spread across two states, Lake Tahoe is the promised land of sun-soaked skiing.

One of America’s legendary mountain playgrounds, the Lake Tahoe Basin has been a resort destination since 1864. That kind of heritage means the Sierra Nevada peaks that encircle North America’s largest alpine lake harbour a more diverse range of outdoor excitement than anywhere this side of Chamonix. There are 12 major ski resorts in the area, all blessed with the gifts of consistent sun and reliable snow. Famous for its incomparable combination of the two, Tahoe is at its best late in the season when goggle tans run rampant throughout the thriving après scene.

The sun shines everywhere, but the four corners of the valley are otherwise very different. The California-Nevada state line running down the middle of the lake typically also marks the boundary between a quaint mountain-town vibe and a rowdy Reno-like atmosphere. And when it comes to the terrain, north versus south is often the difference between serious steeps and family fun. The four corners of Lake Tahoe offer four different takes on spring skiing – all you have to do is pick one. Just don’t forget the SPF 45.

Northwest: Mount Olympus
Squaw Valley, the host of the 1960 Winter Olympics, is the dominant ski resort in the northern half of the valley. Steeps are Squaw’s claim to fame, but a more specific title might be “home to the single best chairlift in the Sierras.” KT-22 serves up 550 vertical metres of rough-hewn California granite, including West Face faves like Jonny Moseley’s Run, all from within steps of Dave’s Deli. The other notable lift at Squaw is the private triple that provides ski-in, ski-out access to the best on-mountain accommodations in the area, the Resort at Squaw Creek.

Northeast: Pair of diamonds
The North Lake Tahoe region west of the state line is charming, but mostly quaint and restrained. There are high points, like Moody’s for live music, but just a few minutes east in Nevada, Incline Village offers more of a carefree attitude. A tri-tip burrito from T’s Mesquite Rotisserie followed by an evening at the Grand Lodge Casino in the Hyatt – the Caesars Ski Cabin to Caesars Palace – demonstrates the difference: fun first. And the skiing is different on the other side of the line, too. The modest, underappreciated Mt. Rose, a foil to the cocky Squaw, hits its stride around March when The Chutes are in their prime.

Southwest: Powder providence
The best skiing in the south end of the valley is arguably found at Kirkwood, a ridgeline resort in the Eldorado National Forest boasting the highest annual snowfall in the area. Having only recently emerged from the shadow of the larger resorts, Kirkwood has focused on opening up more of its renowned high alpine terrain, rather than opening up more lodging options at the base. The 2009 launch of two new surface lifts now makes Vista Ridge and Fawn Ridge accessible, but you’re still going to have to stay at one of the many small hotels in South Lake Tahoe. Which is fine, really, because you’ll get the chance to wax poetic on the day’s heroics at Steamers, an après haunt cherished by locals.

Southeast: Run for the border
With almost 5,000 acres of skiable terrain, Heavenly is the largest resort in the area. (It’s in the southeastern category because some of those acres are in Nevada.) A great family resort, it’s tamer than Squaw or Kirkwood despite having the highest elevation of the Tahoe resorts. It’s also the surest bet later in the season, since snowmaking equipment covers 73 percent of its groomed trails. The unapologetically tacky town of Stateline, Nevada, caters mostly to those who prefer to take their chances at the tables rather than on the mountain. If you simply must have a good New York strip after you pull off your boots, the Ciera Steak + Chophouse in the MontBleu is the spot.

(David Godsall, Editor of onAir, still has a goggle tan.)

DOWNHILL: Heavenly Mountain Resort
SUNNY SLOPE: North Lake Tahoe/Tom Zikas
CABLE CAR: Vail Resorts Inc.