Top 5

Madrid Gardens

By Matthew Fox

With more well-tended green space than most cities, the Spanish capital literally comes alive in the spring. Here are five of the best gardens to park yourself at in Madrid.

The Royal Palace

Parque del Retiro

Hotel Wellington

Once reserved for Spanish royalty, this 320-acre park is now an enormously popular leisure ground for all madrileños, particularly on Sundays, when puppeteers and musicians line the walkways. Check out the array of cafés and fountains before renting a paddleboat to careen across Estanque del Retiro, the lake upon which naval battles were once recreated for kings. Embedded in the greenery are the Museo del Ejército, which contains Columbus’ cross, and the graceful, glass-walled Palacio de Cristal. Located around the corner from the Prado Museum, the Retiro is the ideal spot to soak up the sun after a morning of culture before heading to the famously opulent Hotel Wellington to be pampered in high style. ­Or indulge in a different kind of garden altogether: Thai Gardens, one of the best (and busiest) restaurants in Madrid, offers a delectable change from the Spanish eateries.

Jardines de Sabatini

Even the keenest observer might miss this impeccably groomed downtown oasis, tucked behind the Royal Palace. The intricately shaped shrubs and graceful, unobtrusive statues make this symmetrical green space seem almost like an extension of the palace itself. Though named one of the most romantic places in Madrid – indeed, it is full of couples taking in the breathtaking sunsets – the most impressive thing about the Sabatini Gardens is the location. This is one of the most posh and architecturally interesting districts in the city (Plácido Domingo is rumored to own a place in the area), with elegant restaurants, cultural venues and hotels flanking the nearby plazas. Drop in to the Teatro Real, the royal theater that mixes contemporary and traditional performances to suit all tastes.

Faunia

At this new interactive biodiversity reserve, visitors can glimpse – and even touch – thousands of different species. More than just a zoo, Faunia mixes vast outdoor areas and specialized indoor spaces in order to replicate eight different ecosystems from around the world, from tropical jungles to Arctic glaciers. Faunia is a top Madrid attraction, but you would never know it. The crowds virtually disappear into the countless exhibits and shows, spread over 1.5 million square feet, not to mention the small eateries, nurseries, lakeside rest areas and full-scale restaurants. Nearby, you’ll find both the Warner Bros. theme park (Parque Warner) and the spanking new Hotel Faunia, which allows visitors to walk to the reserve surrounded by exotic birds and landscapes.
 
Parque del Oeste

To observe madrileños in their natural habitat, you can’t beat this university-adjacent “Park of the West” that rolls away from the café-lined Pintor Rosales promenade. Languid walks along the impeccably designed paths are the best way to take in the park’s many sights and sounds, from the family barbecues to the Temple of Debod, an impressively preserved second-century-BC Egyptian structure donated to Spain in 1968. Not to be missed are La Rosaleda – a 18,300-square-foot rose garden where international flower awards are doled out each May – and the Faro de Moncloa, a soaring tower that allows for panoramic views from its observation deck and glass elevator. Parque del Oeste is the pastoral counterpoint to the neighboring commotion of Madrid’s great urban hub, Plaza de España, where you’ll find wildly popular bars, live music venues and an array of cinemas. Of particular note is the Renoir Plaza España, which shows art-house and international films for the discerning viewer.

Casa del Campo

Visitors to Madrid are bound to be intrigued by the huge swath of green occupying the west side of their tourist maps, which turns out to be the Casa del Campo (the country house or, as it locally known, Madrid’s lung). Massive, diverse and lush, this former royal hunting ground sits atop the hills that border the city and offers vistas that make Madrid seem like an urban jewel set among the peaks of the Sistema mountains. Start by taking the 10-minute cable car (teleférico) ride from downtown that heads to the Madrid Zoo. More traditional than the Faunia gardens, the zoo in Casa del Campo contains pandas, lions and bears in huge pens where they can roam and frolic. For a more Spanish animal experience, stroll over to the Venta de Batán, a bullring that’s open to the public and is used to teach the centuries-old sport of tauromaquia (bullfighting). Also nestled in the park are an amusement park, cafés and outdoor concert stages, along with public swimming pools and tennis courts.

(An incessant traveler and nature lover, Matthew Fox spends his non-leisure time working as the online editor of Toronto Life and fiction editor of Maisonneuve.)

Useful information

Parque del Oeste, Paseo del Pintor Rosales, Madrid,
34-91-588-87-90

TOP PHOTO: THE TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN
PARQUE DEL OESTE: THE TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN
MADRID ZOO: MARGARET SMEATON / DREAMSTIME.COM