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Rio: sea, sand and beyond

Rio de Janeiro is the land of the bold and the beautiful. Here are ten tricks to keep up with the locals.

1. Above it all

Steep cobblestone roads lead up to Santa Teresa, Rio’s most bohemian neighbourhood, the place for lively debates over chilled beers. Before taking the cable car back down to the city, save time for an inexpensive lunch at Aprazível or Bar do Arnaudo, two of Santa Teresa’s most picturesque restaurants.

Aprazível, Rua Aprazível, 62, 55-21-2508-9174
Bar do Arnaudo, Rua Almirante Alexandrino 316-B, 55-21-2252-7246


Sugarloaf

2. Sugarloaf

The landmark deserves its fame: From atop the 396-metre-high Pão de Açúcar (a.k.a. Sugarloaf Mountain), you get a 360-degree view of sea-hugging high-rises and Guanabara Bay. Tip: Morning is the best time for photos.

Av. Pasteur, 520, 55-21-2546-8400

3. At the Copa

The Copacabana Palace Hotel is known for its gigantic pool, white stucco facade and, above all, its glitzy galas attended by Brazil's bejewelled socialites. Stop in for a caipirinha cocktail by the pool or, if your budget allows it, make the Copa your home base.

Av. Atlântica, 1702, Copacabana, 55-21-2548-7070


Ipanema

4. Girls (and boys) from Ipanema

Along this two-kilometre stretch of sand, "territories" are marked by tall numbered towers. Younger (and more scantily clad) beach goers gather around Posto 9. Arrive early, open a tab with one of the beach vendors and indulge in ice-cold beers, caipirinhas and people watching.

5. A-grade Italian

Hands down, Gero is Rio’s best Italian restaurant and also the spot to see and be seen. Though getting a table is an exercise in patience, the risotto with partridge and radicchio makes it worthwhile.

Rua Aníbal de Mendonça, 157, Ipanema, 55-21-2239-8158


Prainha

6. Day tripping

Clear, clean waters await at Prainha, half an hour south of Rio. A favourite of surfers and their bronzed friends, the beach is popular on weekends and blissfully quiet during the week.

Tia Palmira, Caminho do Souza, 18, 55-21-2410-8169

7. Local knowledge

Botequims – casual, cheap bars open to the street – are the soul of Rio. The Bracarense is the most famous and crowded of all (despite its inattentive waiters) and is prized for its creamy draft beer and heavenly manioc and shrimp fritters.

Rua José Linhares, 85, Leblon, 55-21-2294-3549

8. Urban hang-gliding

Those brave enough to run off a steep cliff and glide over a tropical forest will be rewarded at Tijuca National Park: On a clear day, you can see Ipanema Beach, Sugarloaf and even the skyline of neighbouring Niteroi.

Konrad Heilman, Tijuca National Park, 55-21-9843-9006


Botanical Gardens

9. Garden state

One of the Botanical Gardens' prettiest alleys is lined with century-old mango trees covered with orchids and bromeliads.

Rua Jardim Botânico, 920, 55-21-2294-9349

10. Boutique street

On Dias Ferreira Street, wrap up lunch at celeb fave Carlota with its signature guava soufflé; for dinner and a nightcap, try the Esch Café cigar lounge.

Carlota, Rua Dias Ferreira, 64, 55-21-2540-6821
Esch Café, Rua Dias Ferreira, 78, 55-21-512-5651

(Brazilian writer and food critic Alexandra Forbes contributes regularly to IN magazine and Vogue Brazil. Rio is her favourite city.)

Getting There

We offer daily flights to Rio de Janeiro via São Paulo, in conjunction with our Star Alliance™ partner Varig. Book now. And don't miss out on our great deals on car rentals and hotels (nightly rates starting as low as $77 CAD).

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TOP PHOTO: PHOTOGRAPHER'S CHOICE RF / GETTY IMAGES
SUGARLOAF: ISTOCKPHOTO
IPANEMA: ALMOR67 / DREAMSTIME.COM
PRAINHA: RICARDO AZOURI / RIOTUR
BOTANICAL GARDENS: RICARDO AZOURI / RIOTUR

June 2006




PEI Visitors Guide