Easy does it: Cape Breton

By Poppy Wilkinson

Like a true city girl, I arrived in Cape Breton with a lengthy list of things to do and a map with notes scribbled in the margins. It didn't take long (only a dozen or so quizzical looks from the locals) for me to chuck my sense of urgency. After all, Cape Breton, N.S., is no place to be rushed. Brimming with Celtic charm and rugged coastlines, this is a place to be savoured – not unlike like a dram of fine Cape Breton whisky.

Make merry

Highlands

You won't get far in Cape Breton before realizing that you are surrounded by the musically gifted. On Saturday nights, toe-tapping Celtic music reigns supreme at ceilidhs (Gaelic for "kitchen parties"). Not necessarily held in kitchens, these informal get-togethers nourish the soul with great music. And even though I found myself regretting that I hadn’t paid more attention in my high-school gym class to the Scottish dancing lessons, the friendly locals are only too tolerant of bad dancers.

The village of Mabou is a good place to check out the bulletin boards to see what's on. Mabou is the hometown of six-time Juno winners the Rankin Family, who now own The Red Shoe Pub, where live fiddlers and cold draughts are both plentiful. Those serious about piping, dancing and Scottish jigging in general should make a pilgrimage to the Broad Cove Scottish Concert, held (appropriately) just off the Ceilidh Trail each July. Big Celtic talent like Natalie McMaster and J.P. Cormier have graced the outdoor seaside stage.

Bonny brew

Glenora Distillery

Take time to savour Cape Breton whisky, made at North America's only single malt distillery. Up and running since 1990, the Glenora Distillery was set up with the help of a Master Distiller recruited from Scotland. Even the traditional copper pots were imported from the motherland. And it's paid off: This award-winning Canadian malt is often compared to Scotch whisky, the real deal.

The distillery offers tours where you can watch the ingredients (barley, yeast and water) turn to amber, and if you're lucky, you'll also get to meet the dark and handsome Master Distiller, Daniel MacLean. The single malt is decidedly mellow, but don’t worry if you get carried away with the tastings; the distillery also has an adjacent inn where you can stay the night.

Keltic Lodge

Settle in

Tucked away in Cape Breton Highlands National Park, the Keltic Lodge is a grand hotel that offers up opulence in the most comfortable way. Originally built by the Corsons (good friends of Alexander Graham Bell) when Mrs. Corson was prescribed fresh air for her ailing health, the place still retains its restorative powers. I couldn't help feel rejuvenated just being there in my cozy room, with the lulling sea outside.

Located on a peninsula, with a 360-degree ocean view, the main lodge is a stately old home. For a major treat, stay in the unforgettable Executive Suite, where a spiral staircase leads up to an observation deck (with telescope!) overlooking the ocean. The Keltic Lodge also neighbours The Highlands Links, deemed in 2005 by GOLF Magazine to be the best public golf course in Canada. For a whole in one, hit the Keltic Lodge's brand-spanking-new Aveda Spa for a dip in the dockside hot tub or join a Pilates class and wind down the day in bliss.

On the other side of the island, there's the Island Sunset Resort, a hamlet of charming cottages set on a bluff in Belle Côte. I felt as though I were visiting Cape Cod years before it became a summer hot spot. Each cottage has its own private porch and looks out over a long sandy beach. While the outside offers rugged beauty, inside it's pure luxury with rich wooden furniture, deep plush armchairs and bathtubs made for two. There is also a fully equipped kitchen with all the fixings – perfect for private cocktails at sunset. Cue contented sigh.

(Poppy Wilkinson is the executive editor of onAir.)

Getting There

We offer daily non-stop service to Sydney, Nova Scotia from Halifax and Montreal. Book now. And check out our great deals on car rentals.

Back to top