TOUR

Hawaii, if by Sea

By Chris Johns

Each Hawaiian island has a character all its own, so what’s the best way to see them all? Silversea’s flagship liner, Silver Shadow, docks at three different Hawaiian islands ­– the Big Island, Oahu and Maui ­– making it the ultimate Hawaiian island-hopping vacation.

Hawaii

Arrive early at the Hilo Farmer’s Market, but be prepared for a little produce envy. The fruit and vegetables are bigger and riper than most. And while the flowers seem too perfect to be real, their sweet smell says otherwise.

Merriman’s owner and chef, Peter Merriman, puts the market’s ingredients to good use. With a bit of homemade kimchee and mango chili dipping sauce, he transforms the common Kahlua pig into his own unique creation.

It’s clear why Waipio Valley has such historical and spiritual significance for Hawaiians. Soaring above the valley are 600-metre cliffs, with waterfalls bursting through the dense foliage. To see all the highlights and get back in one piece, tour the remote location with the help of the reputed Hawaiian Walkways.

If Waipio Valley is the soul of Hawaii, the active volcanoes are its beating heart. The best way to see them is from the air. While Blue Hawaiian Helicopters can’t guarantee flowing lava, you’re sure to see smoking craters and crystalline waterfalls while zipping around in a top-of-the-line Eco Star EC-130 helicopter.

The thatched roof bungalows and abundant hammocks at Kona Village Resort are the picture of a tropical paradise. After a morning of snorkelling and a light lunch, get back to the water in one of the hotel’s complimentary kayaks. The next day, book an open-air massage next to the waterfall.

Oahu

Docking in Honolulu harbour is a bit of a jarring transition after the tranquil Big Island; it’s hopping with giant cargo ships, tourist submarines and military vessels.

Waikiki’s Kalakaua Avenue is crammed with upscale boutiques. Still, hard-core shoppers know to hop on one of the courtesy trams and catch a ride to the Ala Moana Shopping Center. Enjoy dinner at the Marketplace Café in Nordstrom, especially the ahi tuna poke. You could also find yourself dancing until 3 a.m. at the mall’s nightclub.

You expect to see a buff bodybuilder with his tanned-and-toned surfer girlfriend on Waikiki Beach, but who would have predicted the long-haired teen in the trench coat and wizard hat? Waikiki attracts all kinds of folks, and a day spent here is as entertaining as it is inevitable. It may be clichéd, but it’s still got cachet.

We should all hope to look as good at her age as the Moana Surfrider hotel, the 100-year-old First Lady of Waikiki, located next to the beach. For a taste of authenticity, book a room in the Banyan wing. Rooms are outfitted in Hawaiian quilts and rare koa woods.

Though it’s a surf-themed restaurant with no shortage of tacky accoutrements, Dukes serves up generous helpings of Hawaiian favourites in a fun, casual environment with stunning views.

Maui

After we anchor about one kilometre from shore, we’re tendered in on covered rafts over to bustling Lahaina. After a short walk along Front Street, we  head inland to take in Maui’s legendary natural beauty.

Because Hawaii is such a lush and tropical place, the bare, stark landscape of Haleakala National Park is all the more striking. Known as the House of the Sun to locals, this otherworldly site provides a spectacular vantage point from which to  see the sun rise and set.

Built on a picturesque pineapple plantation, the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua has just reopened after US$110-million in renovations, explaining that new resort smell. Your tee time has already been booked, followed by a divine couple’s massage at the spa.

At Hali’imaile General Store, a converted general store, chef Bev Gannon’s inspired take on posh comfort food emphasizes big flavours. Her lobster and edamame salad combines basil, cilantro and a lemon herb aioli in a soothing and inventive way.

The massive macadamia nut-crusted kurobuta pork chop at chef David Paul's Lahaina Grill looks excessively big. But you’ll no doubt find room for a slice of Iao Valley lime tart.

(Chris Johns writes about food and travel for a variety of English, French and Spanish publications.)

TOP IMAGE: SILVERSEA CRUISES
HALEAKALA: R. REID / NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC / GETTY IMAGES