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Après-Ski Scenes

By Matthew Fox

Hitting the slopes isn’t everything; the social aspect of a ski holiday is so important that there's a term for it. Here’s your guide to taking a load off at some of the world’s top après-ski spots.

Whistler

This B.C. community – with terraces and restaurants stretching from the slopes to the edge of town – is hosting the 2010 Olympics for good reason. Garibaldi Lift Company and Merlin’s are low-key and relaxing bars that welcome skiers fresh out of their boots, while the more refined (and aptly named) Après Restaurant offers nouveau French cuisine and a huge cellar of wines. (Be sure to check out the long list of top-notch by-the-glass selections from local B.C. wineries.) For designer shut-eye, aim for the Adara, a boutique hotel where luxury is in the details: modern design (resin antler-shaped coat hooks in the lobby and “floating fireplaces” in the suites) plus services like ski waxing upon request.

Chamonix

Nestled in the glaciers where Italy, Switzerland and France meet, the Chamonix Valley is a winter playground for Europe’s elite. The local take on après-ski is cultivated and refined, complete with classical music recitals and museums. Peruse the works in touring art shows at the Tairraz Exhibition Centre before dancing until 4 a.m. at the various themed parties at Le Tof. Whether you head to bed at 5 p.m. or 5 a.m., be sure to do so at one of the valley’s famous luxury chalets. At the balcony-studded Hameau Albert 1^er , relaxation starts at the well-being centre (with indoor and outdoor swimming pools open year-round) and ends at a table at La Maison Carrier, with traditional local dishes like pig’s trotters or wild boar stew.

Lake Tahoe

Straddling the California-Nevada border, Lake Tahoe is a snowy, glitzy mini-Vegas for the ski set. The action is concentrated in two areas at either end of North America’s largest alpine lake. The development’s 14 resorts accommodate not just skiing but live music, dancing, gambling and dining. Here you’ll find lavish complexes with names you’ll recognize – Caesar’s, Ritz-Carleton, Harrah’s – each offering their own take on glamour. Visitors can have a different après-ski experience every night, from big-name live music to sequin-studded casino shows to all-night dance parties. But if the neon lights prove too much after a day of skiing, retire to the idyllic Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort. Located directly on the shore, this mountain escape offers beachside bliss, private cruises and deep-tissue massages at its modern, tranquil spa.

Niseko Hirafu

One of Asia’s best-kept secrets, Niseko Hirafu has evolved from a low-key adventurers’ destination to a full-scale winter paradise. Crimson-cheeked skiers can seek refuge at any number of restaurants and bars, but those looking for the authentic northern Japanese dining experience head to Captain Hirafu, where fresh oysters are the signature dish, or to Hanks Bar for the fire-cooked skewered meats. Perhaps the best features of this destination are the traditional Japanese onsen (hot outdoor mineral spring baths) and ganban-yoku (stone-bed saunas) that will soothe skiers’ muscles while they chat and sip cold beer. Both are available at Hirafu’s top luxury hotel, the J-First, which also grows much of its own food and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Hokkaido mountains.

St. Anton am Arlberg

Locals claim that downhill skiing was invented, if not perfected, in this Tyrolean village – and the same applies to its après-ski scene. Amid the picturesque gables and steeples, visitors will find legions of partiers, especially at packed bars like the Moosewirt – a slopeside hot spot that opens at 3 p.m. and has a legendary happy hour and a massive terrace. Schnapps was also invented in St. Anton, and you don’t have to go far to find it; the liquor is served everywhere (even on the runs), mixed with hot red wine to make the traditional Austrian Glühwein. The jewel of St. Anton hotels is the five-star Raffl’s Antonerhof, where the past and present are elegantly combined. The decor features centuries-old antiques alongside slick modern elements, while the restaurants cater to world connoisseurs of spirits, wine, cigars and gourmet food.

Useful information

Le Tof, 158, place Edmond Desailloud, Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France, 33-4-50-53-45-28
Hanks Bar, Sasayaki Zaka St., Hokkaido, Japan, 81-136-22-25-87

 (Matthew Fox is a senior editor at Toronto Life and the author of Cities of Weather, a collection of short stories.)

TOP PHOTO: IMAGE SOURCE / JUPITER IMAGES
ADARA: R. KENT
POOL: HAMEAU ALBERT