Sun Destination

Two Caribbean Getaways in One

By Giancarlo La Giorgia

Despite having only 33 square miles between them, Dutch Sint Maarten and French St. Martin offer two unique takes on the same island paradise.

Go Dutch
Sint Maarten is the flashier, more Americanized southern half of the island. Hotels are bigger, and nightlife options are more varied – and did I mention the Dutch side has the island’s only 18-hole golf course, casinos and, ahem, gentlemen’s clubs?

The Atlantis World Casino, a few minutes drive west of the airport, is one of the island’s biggest gambling dens, but the real draw is its collection of top-notch restaurants. Chief among these is the very upscale Temptation, the brainchild of award-winning chef and native son Dino Jagtiani and a showcase for his Nouveau Caribbean cuisine. Expect exotic original creations, such as foie gras PB&J – roasted peanut sauce with port wine and fig jelly – and tempura apple pie.

With the favorable exchange rate (they use the guilder), the Dutch side is also where people come to shop. Philipsburg is the commercial heart of the island, particularly Front Street, known for its duty-free jewelry and liquor shops. One worth browsing is the Guavaberry Emporium, purveyor of rum liqueurs, tasty in frozen daiquiris. To cool off, drop by one of the ice cream shops or juice stands that dot the boardwalk along the well-maintained (if over-developed) beach. Competition keeps prices low, especially at bars, where an ice-cold beer can be had for under $2.

Past the crush of shops, at the end of the boardwalk, Bobby’s Marina beckons wannabe seafarers looking to set sail. The most popular outfitter is 12 Metre Challenge, which offers the thrill of racing across the turquoise Caribbean in pro-caliber yachts, including one America’s Cup winner. No sailing experience is necessary, but an intrepid spirit is. There are four departures per day, each lasting two hours and costing $85 per person, including drinks and a crew T-shirt. If this sounds like a bit too much excitement, head to neighboring company Eagle Tours, which offers more sedate excursions to several of the outlying islands’ 30-odd beaches.

Vive la différence!
St. Martin’s vibe is equal parts European and Caribbean; it’s a place where designer shops at Le West Indies Shopping Mall vie for attention with handicraft and spice vendors at the daily market in the main town of Marigot. The rise of the euro, the local currency, makes luxury items pricier than they would be on the Dutch side, though deals can still be found, especially at independent boutiques.

Unsurprisingly, the French side is renowned for its restaurants, and the small village of Grand Case, just west of the tiny regional airport, is its culinary nucleus. Le Cottage is among the best of the best, with spot-on service, an extensive wine list and inventive dishes that are worth the splurge (think foie gras tempura and couscous foam). The more budget conscious may want to check out Talk of the Town, one of the best lolos (open-air Creole barbecue joints) near the marina, where authentic and filling meals can be had for under $15 a person, albeit in a picnic-style setting.

For a unique souvenir, look for a fantastically colored shack belonging to Fabienne Burgaliere, better known as Ma Doudou, near the Pinel Island ferry. Since 1985, she has been producing the now ubiquitous Ma Doudou line of homemade flavored rums, packaged in hand-painted bottles that look as sweet as their contents taste. The most popular flavors are banana-vanilla, mojito, coconut and orange-ginger, but after a few complimentary sips, you’ll be tempted to buy all 14 varieties.

Finally, for a fun, family-friendly alternative to the usual island pursuits, consider visiting the Loterie Farm eco-park, in the shadow of Pic Paradis, the island’s highest hill. Set amid a lush forest, the 135-acre property has numerous hiking trails to explore, as well as two zipline courses and an obstacle course for kids. When you’re done, you can kick back at the Tree Lounge, perched within a row of palm trees some 25 feet above the ground, and just enjoy the view.

Useful information
Le Cottage, 97, boul. de Grand Case, Grand Case, St. Martin, 590-29-03-30
Talk of the Town, boul. de Grand Case, Grand Case, St. Martin, 590-29-63-89
Ma Doudou Rum Shop, Cul-de-Sac, St. Martin, 590-87-30-43

(Giancarlo La Giorgia is a Montreal-based writer and bestselling author.)

LE WEST INDIES SHOPPING MALL: JMG RIVA