Food and Drink

Brussels, the Other European Culinary Capital

By Isa Tousignant

More than a cultural crossroads, the European Union’s home base is proving itself to be a dining destination in its own right.

Many visitors still tend to think of Brussels as a place to stop for fries with mayo en route to other Euro destinations. But if the cultural heritage and architectural riches aren’t enough to make you stay put, then maybe the world-famous beer will do the trick. Or how about Belgian chocolate and waffles? If you ask us, the best foodie itinerary cuts the clichés and mixes some of Belgium’s traditional dishes with a whole new generation of fine flavours. Here are some essential spots for a true (and addictive) taste of Brussels.

Atomium
One of the best ways to see the city is from atop its best-known construction, the Atomium, conceived by Belgian engineer André Waterkeyn for the 1958 world’s fair. Built in the shape of an atom, the structure lights up like a birthday cake at night, so what better way to treat yourself to dinner than in the restaurant in one of its top spheres? Try the pumpkin soup with wild mushroom and chèvre ravioli followed by the sea bass with mussels and risotto au vert, a classic Belgian flavouring composed of puréed green leafy vegetables like sorrel, chervil and spinach.
Atomiumsquare, 32-2-475-47-75, atomium.be

Bon-Bon
The best meal you’re likely to have in Brussels is at the petite Bon-Bon. Chef Christophe Hardiquest makes his magic by celebrating simple flavours, and he has earned a Michelin star for it. Our minds were blown by the entrées of smoked salmon mousse and tomato purée with greens, not to mention the candied eel. As a main, we highly recommend the sole that comes with a mousse of local beer and is served with cooked endives (a classic Belgian veggie), a potato cake and a trail of peanut and coriander emulsion. Keep room, though, for a dessert avalanche. Whatever you choose, know that every diner is also brought a selection of petits fours as a parting gift, including, on our visit, the world’s smallest pecan pie. We were seeing stars, indeed.
Karmelietenstraat 93, 32-2-346-66-15, bon-bon.be

Le Cercle des Voyageurs
The bookshelves that line the walls of this charming bistro are stacked with travel books; it feels like a sanctuary for wanderers and dreamers. But the food is down to earth, and the menu is packed with tasty examples of classic Belgian cuisine. Go for a good plate of stoemp saucisses piled high with a mountain of mashed vegetables; the classic is potato and carrot, though here they add in some rutabaga for kick and flavour it with broth and spices. It comes with a side of homemade pork sausages that will make you question the sanity of vegetarians. Of course, pair the whole thing with a couple of bottles of Orval, a local Trappist beer.
18, rue des Grands Carmes, 32-2-514-39-49, lecercledesvoyageurs.com

Le Petit Vingtième
Just outside Brussels is an absolute must-see, the Musée Hergé, not only for its impressive architecture but also for its restaurant, Le Petit Vingtième, named after the weekly newspaper the cartoonist was first published in. A low-key fine dining spot, the resto serves a mean waterzooi – a typical dish much in the vein of bouillabaisse but with a creamier texture. They make theirs with toothsome burbot cheeks and mini brown shrimps, a celebrated traditional ingredient, as well as potatoes, leeks, carrots and green onions – perfect when paired with a dry white.
26, rue du Labrador, 1348 Louvain-la-Neuve, 32-2-010-488-426, museeherge.com

Belga Queen
A famously glamorous see-and-be-seen spot designed by Antoine Pinto (who’s also behind Midi Station), Belga Queen offers a mouth-watering array of cocktails as well as the most alluring raw bar in the city. Start with a dozen oysters; then settle into your seat in this buzzing former bank for a steak or catch of the day served with a side of amazing Belgian fries.
Wolvengracht 32, 32-2-217-21-87, belgaqueen.be

(Isa Tousignant is a senior editor at enRoute, as well as a wanderer, a dreamer and an avid eater.)

TOP IMAGE: BON-BON
LE PETITE VINGTIEME: BELGALIFE.COM