TOUR

One Lap of Lake Geneva

By Sylvie Bigar

Wandering the delicious shores of croissant-shaped Lake Geneva and finding a bevy of bite-size escapes, all with a view of the Alps. Yummy!

Starting off in Geneva, where there are many chic hotels to choose from, we stay at the lavish, newly renovated Grand Hotel Kempinski. On a clear day, our room has a view of frosty Mont Blanc, the highest point in Europe. Its reflection seems to nudge the 400-foot-high Jet d’Eau fountain at the mouth of the Rhone. Our other option was the Eastwest Hotel for an intimate boutique feel with touches of mod and the best tapas in town. Both are within walking distance of the Old Town, where we take a leisurely stroll, stopping at century-old wood-paneled cafés and quirky antique shops and ducking into the Patek Philippe Watch Museum.

The following night, a 20-minute drive from downtown Geneva takes us to the medieval village of Hermance and its tranquil pebble beach. There we rest our heads at a uniquely romantic haunt, l’Auberge d’Hermance. Its six elegant rooms feature bespoke decor, but only the Emmanuel-Philibert suite has a vaulted ceiling and cozy fireplace. At dinner, the fillets of perche meunière, a local specialty, are a great fit for our lake theme. It’s easy to get comfortable here, but by the morning of the third day, we’ve only just covered a fraction of the lake, so it’s time to move on. Going east, we cross the border into France and stop at nearby Yvoire for a peek at an ancient fishing village, now dotted with eclectic art galleries.

We all know the famous Evian water, but few experience the charm of its source, the lakeside town of Évian-les-Bains. Discovered in 1790, the water is celebrated for its therapeutic qualities. While here, we stay at the Évian Royal Palace, a historic mansion set on 46 acres of lakeshore, where we linger like 19th-century aristocrats on the long promenade. In warmer months, the stunning 18-hole golf course beckons, but the vibrant casino is open year-round. For a delicious Savoyard meal, we head to La Chevrette in nearby Bernex for a true Alpine fondue and a tartiflette, the luscious potato, Reblochon cheese and bacon gratin.

Circling back toward Switzerland, we watch the landscape take a dramatic turn as the towering Alps plunge deep into the cerulean waters. Montreux and Vevey hide many a celeb in their slopes and valleys. We want to stop in every village to sip some of the delicate Epesses or Saint-Saphorin white wines, but we resolve to spend the night at Lausanne’s Beau-Rivage, a fairy-tale palace since 1861.The breathtaking beauty of its lakeside location is rivaled only by the stunning design of its suites. In the morning, we jaunt over to the shopping district, set amid the cobbled streets of Place de la Palud. In the newly developed Flon warehouse district, we happen upon a slew of funky bars with live music. When it’s time to head back to Geneva, it’s clear that we’ll be taking the scenic Route du Lac.

(Based in New York City, writer Sylvie Bigar explores the world in search of culinary delights and vibrant destinations.)

TOP IMAGE: RICARDO DE LARIVA / GENEVA TOURISM & CONVENTION BUREAU
FONDUE: MAICA / ISTOCKPHOTO