WEEKEND

Texas, All Grown Up

By Alia Akkam

Think Houston is where cowboys come to amass their oil fortunes? Sure. But lately, edgy arts and stylish dining have engendered a new breed of Texas chic in America’s fourth largest city.

The Grove

To qualify as a real grown-up metropolis, a young city like Houston needs a real grown-up downtown core. It wasn’t long ago when Wild West tumbleweeds seemed to roll down Main as soon as the subdivision dwellers punched out. But the Bush era has been good to this city in more ways than one. It’s matured a lot in the last eight years. Paradoxically, the 2004 Super Bowl, held at Reliant Park, turned out to be a coming-of-age party for Houston’s downtown.

Thanks in part to the game, Hotel Icon, which was just starting to make its mark on the city at the time, still enjoys a much-deserved buzz. It’s located in a century-old former bank, complete with the original vault behind the front desk. Seductively opulent rooms set the tone with bold splashes of red and sunken Jacuzzi tubs. Voice, the acclaimed restaurant done in the same lavish style, dominates the lobby. In the welcoming lounge, guests sip cocktails like the Grape Escape, with Bar Sol pisco, white grape juice and pinot noir, before heading to the dining room. Once they’re seated, chef Michael Kramer’s exotic creations demand their full attention. His signature cremini mushroom soup “cappuccino” with truffle foam and porcini powder is not to be missed.

A short walk from the hotel takes you to Discovery Green, a place that’s truly enhanced the area’s livability. This 12-acre park, smack in the middle of downtown, features public art and a lake that’s converted into an ice-skating rink in winter. The crowds of office workers taking yoga breaks attest to the tranquility of this urban oasis. One of the highlights of the space is the Grove. Robert Del Grande and Lonnie Schiller, Houston’s most notable culinary duo, have crafted an eco-friendly restaurant both in terms of food sourcing and architectural materials. It serves up park views along with oyster BLTs and charcoal-grilled steak with addictive chili cheese fries.

Another important measure of metropolitan sophistication is the art scene. Houston has culture covered, but a short trip from downtown to the Montrose area is required. Here you’ll find the Menil Collection, set in a spacious, light-filled building designed by Renzo Piano. The works, from the collection of art patrons John and Dominique de Menil, range from impressive antiquities to Surrealist installations. While you’re in the neighbourhood, pop into Domy Books and let the gallery space inspire you to pick up a rare art book. Afterward, grab a bite at T’afia, where Monica Pope, the city’s premier advocate of sustainable eating, offers a three-course local market lunch on Fridays.

Instead of heading back to the hotel after lunch, check out the Heights for more of Houston’s new urbane cultural sensibility. Known as the go-to neighbourhood for antiquing, the area has recently emerged as a culinary destination. Scott Tycer just opened Textile last year in a beautiful old textile mill. It’s already packed with the local following he earned from the yummy homemade bread his Kraftsmen Baking Company (located next door) has been making for years. Seats are scarce, but the intimacy creates a subdued atmosphere in which to enjoy Tycer’s tasting menu, featuring a bacon tart with basted quail egg or braised veal and pumpernickel sausage. His dramatically presented chocolate bonbons are a great way to cap off an evening – and a tour of the new Houston.

 (Alia Akkam is a New York-based editor and writer covering food, travel, drinks and design.)

TOP IMAGE: THE GROVE
MENIL COLLECTION: GREATER HOUSTON CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU