CULTURAL SPOTLIGHT
Museums of Mexico City
Mexico City may be big, but there is no need to be daunted. Here are some tips on which museums to hit in Mexico’s cultural megalopolis.
El Palacio de Bellas Artes
Carnival of Mexican Life
One of the world’s truly extravagant art museums, the white marble Palacio de Bellas Artes lies in the heart of Mexico City’s historical centre. Among many other major works, this fine arts museum boasts several grand murals by Mexico’s most famous artist, Diego Rivera, whose intricate frescoes adorn important sites in Mexico and Latin America (as well as the San Francisco Stock Exchange).
A few stolen moments contemplating Rivera’s splendid four-part Carnaval de la Vida Mexicana – a riot of colour and emotion that stretches across a north wall on the third floor of the museum – is a good place to begin any visit to Mexico City. Rivera’s maelstrom of human passion is a microcosm of the sprawling energy that expands outward from the city’s grand colonial avenues and crowded alleys.
In the Thick of Things
The gracious, tree-lined boulevards and small, colourful streets that bisect the city’s Centro Histórico – packed with hidden corners, friendly cafés and countless small museums – are worth wandering. The 34-block Zócalo, paved with stones from Aztec ruins, has recently been restored as the mother of all city squares. Grab a fresh-squeezed juice from one of the many vendors and hang around to watch conchero dancers and acrobats perform impromptu shows. The nearby Museo de Charrería is also worth checking out for cowboy clothes, art and artifacts from Mexico’s rich rodeo tradition.
Pop by the Catedral Metropolitana, then take a walk beside the pre-colonial Templo Mayor. Excavated after city workers accidentally discovered its underground remains in 1978, it was built on the site the Aztecs believed was the centre of the world.
For a break, amble over to the Casa de los Azulejos (the House of Tiles). Once a palace, this high-ceilinged building dates back to 1596 and now houses the flagship location for the reliable and reasonable resto chain Sanborns. (Tip: This glorious location has an adjacent jazz bar and a two-for-one cocktail hour.)
Pieces of a Puzzle
Around the Zócalo, city streets unfold in all directions. Calle Moneda, next to the Templo Mayor, is a pedestrian walkway crammed with vendors selling a wide variety of street food and crafts. If a sampling of chili-rubbed corn on the cob or churros (doughnuts) isn’t to your taste, grab a torta (Mexican sandwich) and have a picnic in the Alameda Central, where Mexican families people-watch and enjoy the breeze.
Further afield, in the stylish Condesa neighbourhood, visit the Museo Nacional de Antropología, where the soul of pre-colonial Mexico lives on in brilliant displays and inestimable treasures. For a taste of the bohemian side of Mexico City life, the Coyoacán district is also worth visiting. Linger in the artsy cafés or take in the soaring staircases, elegant balustrades and secret courtyards of the private apartment homes as you wander the terrace-lined, verdant streets of this gentrified old neighbourhood. Finally, visit the Museo Frida Kahlo to pay homage to Kahlo, Mexico’s other famous artist (and Rivera’s muse), in her long-time home. A look at some of Kahlo’s intense artwork is an invitation into the heart of Mexico.
Useful information
Museo de Charreria, Isabel la Católica, 108, 52-5-709-4838
Catedral Metropolitana, Avenida 16 de Septiembre, 52-5-512-9467
Casa de los Azulejos, Madero 4, 52-55-5518-6676
Getting there
We offer twice daily non-stop service from Toronto to Mexico City, as well as service from Montreal four times weekly. Find your flight. Plus, take advantage of our great deals on hotels and car rentals.
TOP PHOTO: REPRODUCTION AUTHORIZED BY THE INSTITUTO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES Y LITERATURA 2008
ZOCALO: BERNARDO ERTL / DREAMSTIME
CASA DE LOS AZULEJOS: ALEXANDRE FAGUNDES DE FAGUNDES / DREAMSTIME
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