Sun Destination

St. Lucia in the Sea with Emeralds

By Alia Akkam

Dubbed the Helen of the Caribbean, St. Lucia is still miraculously unspoiled – so get there before she launches a thousand ships.

Arriving in peaceful St. Lucia, it sure is tempting to embrace island time and stay holed up in your luxury villa, wandering on your own pristine beach and drinking a rum punch or two. But with its verdant, rough-hewn peaks, St. Lucia is one of the prettiest spots in the Caribbean. And if that’s not enough to lure you away from your poolside chaise longue, the many quirky eating and drinking options are sure to entice you.

In the heart of Rodney Bay Village, the be-seen entertainment enclave in the island’s northwest corner, Coco Palm is an affordable boutique hotel with a breezy French-Caribbean vibe. That spirit is amplified when sitting at Ti Bananne, the open-air bar where you might find yourself grooving to the sounds of dreamy poolside steel drums.

For a more tranquil experience, the rugged island also glitters with isolated upscale properties. One that stands out for its elegant simplicity is the nearby RockResort Landings. While it might be hard to part with your private, outdoor heated plunge pool, guests are encouraged to get their hands dirty on a food-sourcing adventure with chef Richard Tonks. The man behind the Landings’ open-grill Beach Club loves cooking with the island’s bounty of fresh produce, and guests are invited to ride up to a family farm with him and help him pluck fresh chili peppers and pineapple for the night’s supper.

If even more authentic island eating is what you’re after, take the short dinghy ride to Pigeon Island National Park. This island, dotted with old military forts, is so quiet it’s almost eerie – not to mention supremely relaxing. At Jambe de Bois, overlooking Rodney Bay, all you want to do is sit on the porch at a table, constructed of driftwood, with coconut water and a slab of moist banana crumble.

Looking for something more lively? In St. Lucia’s capital of Castries, do like the locals do and hit the Saturday market for everything from ornate wood carvings to tangy banana ketchup. And if you’re looking for an exciting Friday night dinner option, don’t miss the fish fry. For this convivial weekly tradition, head south to Anse la Raye, the coastal fishing town dotted with whimsical, colourful homes. Vendors line the streets selling straight-from-the-grill conch, lobster and warm, doughy Johnny cakes. Grab a plate, sit at a communal table and sip a Piton (made-in-St. Lucia beer) as the sounds of reggae fill the evening air.

Continue making your way south on St. Lucia’s serpentine roads, winding through the emerald spires, and you arrive in Soufrière. (You can also skip the drive altogether and travel by catamaran if sailing’s more your style.) At the Diamond Botanical Gardens, you’ll feel as if you’re in a fairy-tale jungle, surrounded by bright, tropical blooms and a gushing waterfall. Make sure to take a dip in the circa 1784 mineral baths fed by hot springs. Josephine, Napoleon’s wife, is rumoured to have splashed around in them as well.

From here, you’re within a short jaunt of the famed Ladera Resort. Its restaurant, Dasheene, has received more than its share of accolades and boasts a breathtaking view of the Gros and Petit Pitons, St. Lucia’s striking mountain duo. After a banana daiquiri or two, you realize it would be impossible to overhype such a place. And the same might be said of the island itself. Its collection of posh resorts has given St. Lucia a reputation for exclusivity, but its pristine natural beauty and unique array of local offerings can be enjoyed by anyone.

(Alia Akkam is a New York-based editor and writer who covers food, travel, drinks and design.)

SAILING: Phil Blackburn
COAST SCENE: Phil Blackburn
ANSE LE RAYE: Curtis James