Food and Drink

Quebec’s Eastern Promises

By Chantal Martineau

On our culinary tour of the Eastern Townships, we find food trends wrapped in tradition.

Seasonal and local may be the foodie fetish du jour, but in the Eastern Townships, cuisine de terroir is just how people eat. About an hour or so outside of Montreal, the region has become something of an epicurean hub, with its charming cluster of wineries, family farms and microbreweries welcoming visitors. A handful of quaint B&Bs with superlative kitchens allow you to experience first-hand what it really means to eat from the land.

The region is a collection of different towns, each with a distinct character and its own collection of foodie favourites. It’s tough to hit them all, but if there’s one stop you must make it’s at Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey in the town of the same name, where bona fide Benedictine monks make award-winning Bleu Bénédictin cheese – when they aren’t performing Gregorian chants, that is. In the basement there’s a small shop selling the Bleu, as well as other cheeses, pies, jams and strong apple cider, all courtesy of the brothers.

You’ll want to save some of that Bleu Bénédictin to take with you to Domaine Pinnacle in Frelighsburg to pair with their fabulous ice ciders. These sweet yet tart elixirs are made from apples that have been left to freeze on the branches. The result is an elegant, aromatic dessert wine reminiscent of sauternes or muscat, and an excellent complement to the monks’ strong, creamy cheese or even rich foie gras. Domaine Pinnacle ice cider comes in a sleek, slender bottle, which makes it the perfect holiday gift. Alternatively, opt for the sparkling ice cider to sweeten your New Year’s toast.

Speaking of foie gras, a number of farms in the region make their own. One such farm, also in Frelighsburg, is La Girondine, a family-run operation that raises duck, rabbit, guinea fowl and lamb to sell in a nearby town’s farmers’ market. You can arrange to visit the free-range animals, then pop over to the boutique where you’ll find a panoply of pâtés, terrines and other tasty homemade treats.

For an even wilder farm experience, call ahead to visit Wapitis Val-Grand-Bois, a wapiti farm in Saint-Armand. “A what farm?” you might ask. Wapitis are an indigenous breed of elk raised for venison meat. In the wintertime, the majestic creatures look like giant, gentle reindeer frolicking in the snow. (Use your imagination.) The farm also sells its own wapiti steaks, rillettes, terrines, sausages and even ravioli. The meat is lean and flavourful, as all good game should be.

The B&Bs in the region range from simple and rustic to regal and warm. The charming Ripplecove Inn sits on the banks of Lake Massawippi and features comfortable, country-style rooms for $130 to $260. The kitchen turns out such regional specialties as locally produced foie gras and lamb or duck sourced from nearby farms, all served before a roaring fireplace. At the other end of the lake is Manoir Hovey, a Relais & Châteaux property in posh North Hatley. Rooms, ranging from $160 to $370, are done up in genteel Victorian style. In the winter months, guests are invited to borrow snowshoes and set out on the inn’s private trails or strap on some skates for a pleasant glide on the rink out back.

(Chantal Martineau is a freelance writer who splits her time between New York and her native Montreal. She is a regular contributor to Imbibe and Best Life magazines.)

FOIE GRAS: John Joh
MANOIR HOVEY: © Relais & ChÂteaux / GRANT SIMEON