SUN DESTINATION

The Bahamian Way

By Judith Ritter

For locals, “the Bahamian way” describes the flavour of smoked goat peppers and a passion for dance and music. For the global glitterati, it means unrivalled hospitality.

The Ocean Club

Nassau’s small, posh hotels have been attracting the world’s elite for nearly a century. The draw is a combination of opulence, the island’s heavenly peace and the warm hospitality.

The newest of these stylish Bahamian hideaways is the Marley family’s former villa, now called the Marley Resort. Various Marleys still drop by their old homestead, so the hotel feels like a cozy family clubhouse. Decorated in shades of muted ochre, orange and lime, the meticulously restored villa attracts major music industry players. “This was our home for many years,” Stephanie Marley says, “so when our friends visit, we want them to feel as if they’re coming home.”

Surrounded by poinciana and flamboyan trees, the luxurious lodging overlooks six kilometres of white sand beach. And the resort’s nouveau Caribbean restaurant boasts a menu that matches the setting. The kitchen is run by top chef Sheldon Sweeting and Lurline “Mama” Tracey, who has been a fixture with the Marley family since 1993, serving up jerk chicken, pepper pot soup and other Jamaican favourites.

Nearby, Graycliff has been hosting high society for years. Run by Enrico and Anna Maria Garzaroli with their son Paolo, it features eclectically furnished rooms tucked away in beautiful bougainvillea gardens. As Paolo casually rattles off the names of famous guests, it’s clear that everyone from Brooke Shields to the Beatles has stayed here. Anna Maria asks her son if the Greek royal family hadn’t stayed there once too. With so many tastemakers coming and going, it’s hard to keep track of them all. Jordanian princes, a parade of Saudis and reigning pop queen Celine Dion all flock to Graycliff, and Paolo admits some of these monarchs can be a bit demanding. “There was the time someone wanted a goat milk bath,” he recalls. “Fortunately, a nearby monastery had goats, so we were able to come through.”

The Graycliff restaurant is also a must for the Tinseltown crowd. Nicolas Cage and Robert De Niro particularly enjoy chef Joshua Campbell’s distinctive version of Bahamian seafood gumbo. The restaurant has the world’s third-largest wine cellar. It not only flaunts an extensive wine selection but also has a variety of bottled water, including Madonna’s favourite, Bling, for a cool US$90 per litre.

Over on nearby Paradise Island, the linen-wearing high-finance golf crowd likes to hole up at One&Only Ocean Club. Built by grocery baron Huntington Hartford II, the hotel has housed polite society for almost 50 years. Maybe it’s the pale pink guest houses, the marble tiled balconies or the Versailles-inspired gardens, all evoking Nassau’s colonial past.

The tasteful resort is a study in understated sophistication – no brazen bling here. The Ocean Club’s guests are likely to be found lounging in lawn chairs reading a biography of Napoleon, or teeing off on the Tom Weiskopf course. And you won’t find cellphones in the restaurants. In fact, everyone’s behaviour is so refined, it almost feels like stepping into the 19th century.

For something a little more modern, try the Cove, a new adjunct area of the Atlantis megahotel complex. The Cove is a quiet alternative to Atlantis’ thousands of rooms and myriad water slides. It’s an ideal compromise between the desire for tranquility and the need to entertain easily bored teenagers. The Cove also appeals to a flashier crowd who like to hang around the adults-only pool, such as NBA stars, teen heartthrobs and rockers. With its nightclub atmosphere, it’s not surprising that the pool is managed by the same team behind Manhattan’s Cain club. To find refuge from the parade of bikinis and buzzing blackjack tables, try a private cabana with butler service for a mere US$700 per day.

Whether it’s to experience the elegance of old Nassau or to haunt celebrity havens, you can’t go wrong with a perfectly chic retreat in the Bahamas.

(Judith Ritter is a Montreal-based writer and a frequent contributor to public radio in the U.S.)

TOP PHOTO: BARBARA KRAFT / ONE&ONLY RESORTS
MARLEY RESORT: PETER BROWN
COVE: KERZNER INTERNATIONAL