Lake Louise: Luxury on the rocks

By Poppy Wilkinson

As I set off for my mini-break in the Canadian Rockies, the last thing I expected was to hear as many European accents as I did. Put off by the crowds and queues of the Alps, throngs of Europeans are choosing to holiday in Western Canada. And they're on to something: Alberta not only has that famous Big Blue Sky and jaw-dropping mountain ranges, it also offers the promise of powder and serious (but, let's face it, more affordable) luxury.

Nestled in the Banff National Park, Lake Louise is an obvious choice for sporty types, but those with a bum knee (or, like myself, with a taste for relaxation) will be just as happy. Push or pamper yourself – the choice is yours.

It's all down hill

Skiing or snowboarding on the Rocky Mountains is legendary. Daredevils are drawn to the steep slopes of Norquay, while Sunshine Village is popular for its extra helpings of powdery snow. Not exactly an Olympic hopeful, I enjoyed the journey up as much as the ski down as I was whisked up Lake Louise Mountain on the new high-speed, multimillion-dollar gondola, which offers both unparalleled views and cushioned seats.

Of course, fresh air (not to mention vigorous exercise) calls for serious après-ski snacking. Plonk yourself down at Lake Louise's Powder Keg (located on the second floor of the Lodge of the Ten Peaks) for a refreshing pint and nacho platter. I did and received a few wide-eyed looks from visiting Europeans unaccustomed to the "healthy" North American portion sizes. (No regrets.)

Canada's best hotel?

post hotel & spa

For the ultimate pampering, head to the Post Hotel & Spa, an exquisite Relais & Château property tucked away in Lake Louise. Considered by Condé Nast Traveler to be one of the best hotels in the world, the Post serves up a blend of stylish luxury and at-home comfort. Feeling peckish (why not blame that crisp mountain air again?), I booked a table in the dining room for a pitch-perfect meal. I got things started with ahi tuna crusted with coriander seed and moved on to a filet of bison so tender, I almost thought it was Alberta's famous beef. The Post has a massive wine collection, with over 28,500 bottles and over 1,500 different selections on offer, so I was only too happy to confer with the affable head sommelier.

Never one to shy away from either a digestif or a toasty fireplace, after dinner I collapsed on a leather couch in the adjacent den and savored a fine whisky. The warmth of the room and the general sense of well-being led to easy chats with a few other hotel guests about the ski conditions and where we were all from. All of us rosy-cheeked from a day on the slopes (or was it the whisky?), I learned that they were in town for the week from – where else? – Switzerland.

Get into hot water

For over a century, travelers have headed to Banff National Park to indulge in a healing soak in the natural hot springs that flow from Sulphur Mountain. I went for a dip and felt almost ridiculously serene as I peered though the steam – past the canoodling couples – to a backdrop of snow-peaked mountains. It was like I was in an old-school advertisement for Life Out West.

For a no-holds-barred spa experience, a day at the Fairmount Banff Spring's Willow Stream Spa will also do quite nicely. First time snowboarding? Sore muscles will welcome the Après-Ski Performance Massage followed by a soak in the indoor Hungarian mineral pool.

Where to stay in Lake Louise

The Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise, which has a stately, fairy-tale feel, is one of Canada's grand old hotels. The Lake Louise Inn offers a fantastic view and family-friendly digs (including condo-style accommodations ideal for group holidays). The inn is also home to a popular local bar, Explorers, where you can catch karaoke on Tuesdays. For a true place apart, treat yourself to a stay at the impeccable Post Hotel & Spa.

(Poppy Wilkinson is the executive editor of onAir. She wrote about Cape Breton in the June issue.)

Getting There

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