Hawaii's cocktail scene

By Marie Belmont

What would a visit to Hawaii be without a kitschy fruit-speared-on-paper-umbrella cocktail? It would be a circa-2005 visit to Honolulu in the post-tacky-tiki era, that's what. The classy cocktail renaissance causing a stir in London and New York has reached the islands, with elegant, carefully mixed drinks replacing the hollowed-out coconuts and pineapples of yesteryear. Cheers!

Visit Italy to learn to cook pasta. Visit Japan to learn the secrets of sushi. And stay at the Halekulani hotel in Honolulu to learn to mix tropical cocktails from one of the world's best bartenders, Dale deGroff (formerly of New York's famed Rainbow Room). Earlier this year, he redesigned the drink list at the hotel's renovated Lewer's Lounge, now a sleek bar with live jazz and signature creations like the Sunset Martini (gin, apricot and orange liqueurs and lilikoi juice, which tastes like passion fruit) and the Black Pearl (a mysterious blend of Blavod vodka, gin, rum and cranberry juice). DeGroff periodically revisits the hotel to give master classes to aspiring mixologists – the equivalent of Daniel Boulud teaching aspiring chefs to make Béarnaise sauce.

2199 Kalia Rd., Honolulu, 808-923-2311

Radisson Waikiki Prince Kuhio

The recently renovated Radisson Waikiki Prince Kuhio is a model of tiki chic. The lobby bar serves unique drinks like the Hawaii Blue (hip Hypnotiq liqueur, Skyy vodka, mango pulp and cranberry juice) and the Pineapple Luilui (a wicked mix of cachaça, pineapple, lemon and lime). Though the orchid garnishing your drink and the breezes wafting in from the courtyard are tropical, the vibe of low-slung furniture and the bar's backlit glass panels are pleasingly modern.

2500 Kuhio Ave., Honolulu, 808-922-0811

The eclectic acoustic-jazz-meets-hula-music sound of the Zanuck Kapala Lindsey trio wafts out of the W Honolulu bar, telling you everything you need to know about its island-fusion mix. Try a specialty martini like a Pinatini (Barcardi CoCo rum, pineapple juice and a cherry) or a Tuaca lemon drop (based on the vanilla and citrus brandy Tuaca). Located at the foot of the Diamond Head Crater, the W is just off the tourist-beaten path (and locals prefer its adjacent beach to nearby Waikiki).

2885 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu, 808-922-1700

Okolehau (pronounced “oko-lay-how”) is the equivalent of Hawaiian moonshine, a spirit made from the fermented local ti plant, sugar cane and rice. You know it's good – and potent – because for years it was banned in Hawaii. The Sandwich Island Brewing Company set up shop last year in a former sugar mill to brew authentic okolehau from a traditional recipe. Though kolehau means “iron bottom” (after the vats in which it was made), this modern brew is aged in former bourbon barrels, adding a whisky flavour to its smooth brandy taste. Released in Hawaii this year, it will be available in early 2006 on the mainland.

P.O. Box 792214, Paia, 808-283-3829

If you're still yearning for that old-time tiki experience, head to a 50-year-old gem called La Mariana Sailing Club, near the Honolulu Airport. It's not easy to find, but a savvy local (my friend Matthew Grey, food critic for the Honolulu Advertiser newspaper) gives the scoop: “It's on a little dead-end side street just after the big curve in the road. Look for a white sign that has the number 50 spray-painted in black, turn right and thread your way around the marina office to find the restaurant, right on the water.” What you'll discover there is plenty of bamboo, blowfish lanterns, wood carvings and even a waterfall. Classic paper-parasol mai tais and shrimp lumpia (dumplings) make for a perfect happy hour alongside the Keehi Lagoon.

50 Sand Island Access Rd., Honolulu, 808-848-2800

(Marie Belmont has accumulated over 1 million travel miles. She wrote about New Zealand thrill-seeking in the July 2005 issue of onAir.)

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