SUN DESTINATION
U.K. Beach Retreats
The British Isles may not be best known for their sun and surf, but these seaside destinations prove it’s possible to get a tan – not to mention some great seafood – in the U.K.
When princes William and Harry helicoptered in to the Isle of Wight for their cousin’s stag, it should have marked a new chapter for this quiet island off England’s south coast. But Wight has kept its cool. Most importantly, it fended off fixed links to the mainland, so everyone who’s here has made an effort. The masses migrate down in September for one of the country’s best music festivals, named, appropriately, Bestival. (Amy Winehouse headlines this year.) The rest of the year, though, things are as tame as you want them to be. As for lodging, go boutique at the elegant Hambrough on the southeast coast.
Brits love Whitstable for its ability to rise above its neighbors (oil rigs, cargo docks and industrial parks) and offer pure seaside chic. It doesn’t rock out like England’s clubbier seaside spots, but if you’re looking for rock lobster, you’ll find it here. You can take your pick of any number of fish joints where the catch is hauled to shore that day, and you might even share the bar with the guy who netted it. Favorites are the Whitstable Oyster Company and the Pearson’s Arms, both on a stony beach backing retro High Street, where you’ll find heritage ice cream and curiosity shops. From there, it’s a boardwalk stroll to the Whitstable Brewery Bar.
The roofs are thatched and the waves are high. North Devon, home to surfers and refugees from reality, has always appealed to those looking for cheap seaside thrills and a killer sunset. But the cool kids attracted the artists, who attracted the great and the good. Now Ilfracombe has a new upscale groove, with a wealth of stylish seaside cottages, stellar B&Bs, Damien Hirst's The Quay restaurant and charming twin towns – Woolacombe and Croyde – offering fine food and drink.
Brighton, as all of the U.K. knows, is always up for a party. But drive a bit farther west, and you’ll be shocked by how hip its neighbors have gotten. Nobody had ever heard of Littlehampton before East Beach Café opened last summer; now it’s an essential stop on the coastal route. Architect Thomas Heatherwick designed its “postmodern seashell” exterior, but don’t let the mind-bending design distract you from the fantastic food. On the other side of Brighton, in charming Bexhill-on-Sea, is the Art Deco De La Warr Pavilion, a contemporary art gallery that has recently been restored and redeveloped by some of London’s hottest designers.
It doesn’t have the chic reputation of Cornwall or Devon, but the north Norfolk coast gets bonus points for its (relative) proximity to London and tranquility. (If you choose your weekend carefully, you’ll have it all to yourself.) Holkham, Wells and Brancaster have the best white sand beaches this side of the English Channel. And if you’ve ever heard of Cromer crab, well, Cromer is right down the road. Get the best seafood at Cookie's Crab Shop in Salthouse: no frills (in a good way), England’s soul food and the hottest ticket on the coast.
(Samantha MacIntyre is a freelance writer and a veteran travel journalist who lives in Bristol with her husband and two young children.)
Getting there
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BRIGHTON: ANDY STAGG
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