Retro Maui

By Chris Johns

Maui is hot. Not since the days when Elvis was serenading beach bunnies and pretending to surf has Hawaii been such a draw. MTV reality series Living Lahaina and Maui Fever have made Maui newly young and hip, but it’s the island’s practised ability to provide the classic beach vacation that keeps drawing visitors back.

Catching the wave

There’s nothing more old school than surfing. The Hawaiians invented the sport long before any Westerners set foot on the tropical island. The Goofy Foot Surf School accepts customers of all ages. The youngest in our group is five; she’s here learning for the first time along with her parents. After a few lessons on dry land, it’s time to hit the water. The gentle surf is just right for a beginner, and after a couple of shots of salt water, I’m hanging 10 in no time. So confident are the instructors in their techniques that guests are guaranteed to catch a wave at least once during the two-hour lesson or it’s free.

westin maui

After a hard session surfing, it’s time to hit the spa. At the Westin Resort, outdoor cabanas offer beachside treatments, but my appointment is in the spa proper, where I begin with a eucalyptus-scented steam before a quick soak in the whirlpool and a shower. Tip: Arrive a few minutes early to take advantage of the relaxation room with its unparalleled view of Ka’anapali Beach.

A good grilling

A short stroll down the beach is Whaler’s Village, a high-end beachfront shopping centre. A number of restaurants take pride of place overlooking the beach. Hula Grill, which looks like a 1930s-style beach house, features such classic Hawaiian dishes as macadamia-nut-crusted mahi mahi and pupus (Hawaiian appetizers) like imu-style barbecue ribs and Kahlúa pot stickers and, of course, cocktails served in tiki mugs. You’ll have to share the gigantic Hula Pie for dessert: a mountain of sweet macadamia-nut ice cream on a chocolate cookie crust, topped with chocolate fudge, whipped cream and more macadamia nuts.

David Paul’s Lahaina Grill is in the town of Lahaina, just off the bustle of the main strip. Located in a historic building (1938) that also houses the boutique Lahaina Inn, the restaurant is both quaint and luxurious. Colourful local art decorates the walls, offset by fine linens and elegant stemware. Executive chef Arnufo Gonzalez incorporates local ingredients in modern ways, so we get impeccably fresh seared ahi with foie gras and meaty rack of lamb that takes on a dark, savoury complexity from a crust of Kona coffee. The restaurant’s vast wine list includes everything from half bottles of Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne to magnums of Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, and, if you really want to splurge, there’s even a 1966 Château Haut-Brion.

Island fever

By now, the appeal of Maui is working its magic, and I’m wondering what it would be like to own a little slice of this paradise. At the end of a walk along Ka’anapali Beach, I come across the development for Honua Kai. This exclusive Intrawest condo-hotel resort is taking shape on the last undeveloped stretch of prime beachfront. Although this is probably as close as I’ll ever get to owning one of the multimillion-dollar properties, it’s fun to imagine.

(Chris Johns writes about food and travel for a variety of English, French and Spanish publications. He wrote about Las Vegas restaurants in the July 2006 issue of onAir.)

Getting There

We offer daily non-stop service between Vancouver and Maui. Plan your trip. Plus, check out our great deals on hotels and car rentals.

Back to top