Tour

Irish Delights

By Giancarlo La Giorgia

Culinary jewels shimmer on the Emerald Isle.

Irish fare has long meant meat and potatoes, but when its economy started roaring in the 1990s, the Celtic Tiger developed more adventurous tastes. Today immigrants from Asia, Africa, Latin America and Eastern Europe have brought exotic dishes into the mix, and Dublin alone now boasts six Michelin-starred restaurants. Most of their menus present modern takes on old Irish classics.

Kevin Thornton, a native son and classically trained chef, is leading the contemporary Irish food movement with his avant-garde Thornton’s Restaurant. At this modern space in the posh Fitzwilliam Hotel, a simple dish like bacon and cabbage is transformed into a multilayered terrine with poitín (potato-based alcohol) sauce. Despite his French leanings, Thornton relies on ingredients sourced almost entirely from Ireland’s pastures, fields and seas. Other menu highlights include slow-braised suckling pig trotter with glazed turnip, as well as venison loin with roasted parsnip and a Valrhona chocolate sauce.

Flavour city
For a more diverse (and affordable) taste of Dublin, sign up for a Fabulous Food Trails walking tour. Each Friday at 10 a.m., a pair of the outfit’s knowledgeable guides leads a small group of foodies through the city, pointing out landmarks and dishing out interesting bits of trivia. There are many free samples to nibble on along the way, so you can skip breakfast – and probably lunch.

Itineraries change every week, but you can expect Irish cheese tasting at Sheridans Cheesemongers, a double shot of Irish whiskey and Irish Rebellion history at John Lynch’s Swan Bar, Lara Lu’s spicy (and messy) falafel wraps in the Georges Street Arcade market, some local lore at Morrissey’s Family Butchers and smoked Irish salmon on soda bread at Fallon & Byrne fine food shop and restaurant.

What’s brewing
All that eating and walking can make you thirsty, so it’s a good thing you’re never far from a Guinness in Dublin. The famous dark and creamy stout is brewed at the sprawling Guinness Storehouse, by the River Liffey, where you’ll be greeted at a visitor centre housed in a tower shaped like a pint glass. It features multimedia exhibits detailing Guinness’ history and brewing process and a “training bar” where would-be bartenders can practise their pouring skills. The main attraction is the Guinness Gravity Bar, on the tower’s top floor, where visitors are treated to a 360-degree view of the city and a complimentary pint.

Seaside stop
A quick half-hour ride on the "wrong" side of the road takes you to the small coastal town of Malahide. It’s a change of pace and scenery for history buffs, who are sure to marvel at Malahide Castle. The allegedly haunted 12th-century home of the Talbot family rests on 260 lush acres near the Malahide train station. The town’s other main attraction is the marina, where postcard scenes of the sea meet great dining options like Kajjal, a popular contemporary restaurant serving classic Indian and Pakistani dishes. Could there be a better expression of Ireland’s dynamic new cultural landscape than succulent Irish lamb served with garam masala and coriander in this most iconically Irish of settings?

(Giancarlo La Giorgia is a Montreal-based writer and bestselling author.)

TOP IMAGE: DUBLIN TOURISM
CHEESE: COURTESY FABULOUS FOOD TRAILS MALAHIDE CASTLE: DUBLIN TOURISM