FOOD & DRINK
Switzerland's La Gruyère
Hungry for Gruyère? Before digging in - fondue fork first - how about exploring its birthplace: the grassy rolling moraines and pre-Alpine peaks of the Gruyère region in the Swiss canton of Fribourg?
A scenic hour's train ride from Geneva brings you to Palézieux, where the switch to the rickety orange train labelled La Gruyère marks your downshift to a slower pace. Be sure to know where you're heading as most stops are on demand only. You'll pass centuries-old farmhouses that camp proudly over velvety fields - not to mention forests of inky pine trees that speak of snowy winters where elusive mountain goats ramble.
The fortified town of Gruyères, founded in 1100, is a jewel where only 100 inhabitants remain, living in a cluster of medieval buildings beneath the pencil-thin turrets of its castle. Seen from afar, in its strategic position at the foothold of the Moléson peak, it is as bewitching today as it was in the time of knights in armour.
Convened around an octagonal fountain, the freshly repaved square is lined with historical homes, some decorated in a naïf country style, others heavy with Helvetian red geraniums. Don't miss jester Chalamala's 14th-century residence, adorned with victorious antlers and a terrifying dragon-like gargoyle.
The castle will delight dreamers of all ages with its clear-cut ramparts, historical artifacts and darkened wooden balcony over French-style gardens. Inside, a hocus-pocus of history tells the stories of the successive families who sought refuge there. The imposing kitchen serves as a reminder that Gruyères is also known for its moitié-moitié fondue - not a watery rendition with half-and-half cream but a dreamy concoction made with equal doses of local Vacherin and (what else?) Gruyère.
Step into the restaurant Le Chalet and inhale. Enjoy the smoky aroma of melted cheese and taste the fruity fondue prepared by a local cheese maker. And if you're into creamy, don't leave without tasting the double crème lavished onto crackling meringues or giant raspberries. Everything is made or harvested locally - from the thick peasant bread to the crimson viande séchée (a paper-thin dry meat) to the earthy cured ham.
Renewed with Swiss-made energy, attack the bizarre planet of the Giger Museum, a land of surreal and sometimes macabre art. You will either love or hate the work of the Swiss artist who designed the creature for the film Alien, but just keep the kids away from the adults-only curtained room. And to keep the magic going, grab a drink at the Giger Bar with wild-creature-themed furnishings.
Before checking in at La Ferme du Bourgoz, a simple working farm with a few rooms and the best breakfast in town, make sure you stop at La Maison du Gruyère, a cheese-making facility that produces up to 48 gigantic wheels a day. Take the family-friendly audio tour led by Cherry the cow, and watch the cheese makers churn the goods in their gigantic copper kettles.
A few kilometres away in Charmey, the new baths, Les Bains de la Gruyère, are connected underground to the fine Hotel Cailler. They offer top-of-the-line spa services and a kids-only area, so soak up the view and rest your soul; it's almost dinnertime.
(Based in New York City, writer Sylvie Bigar explores the world
in search of culinary delights and vibrant destinations.)
Getting there
Air Canada is the only carrier that operates seasonal daily non-stop service from Toronto to Zurich, with convenient connections to other cities with Star Alliance™ member airline, Swiss. Find your flight. Plus, check out our great prices on car rentals and hotel rooms.
TOP PHOTO: CORBIS / VEER
CASTLE: WWW.CHATEAU-GRUYERES.CH
LA MAISON DU GRUYÈRE: KHENG GUAN TOH / DREAMSTIME
LES BAIN DE LA GRUYÈRE: LA GRUYÈRE TOURISME
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